Author: Zsófia Rába
“My drive to know more about my culture through its cuisine.” – Quentin Glabus
Food as a Way of Storytelling
Food, beyond its primary purpose of sustenance, is a medium for cultural and emotional ties – certain flavors and scents can evoke strong recollections of locations, people, and events. This is especially the case for Indigenous communities, for whom food is more than daily nourishment – it is a bridge and connection to their ancestral lands and a way to preserve their identities. Yet, colonization not only destroyed cultures, communities, and traditions, but it also dismantled many food systems. Despite these challenges, Indigenous chefs and activists are now revitalizing their culinary heritage, transforming food into a powerful tool for storytelling.
Storytelling and food go hand in hand, imparting ideals of mutual respect, care, and origin. Each meal can serve as a symbolic ceremony, connecting generations of communities and passing down values.
An outstanding chef who embodies this resurgence is Quentin Glabus, an internationally recognized chef and representative of Canadian and Indigenous cuisine.
Reconnecting to Roots: The role of tradition
Quentin Glabus, born in Edmonton, Alberta, is an aboriginal chef and a proud member of the Frog Lake Cree Nation, located in northern Alberta, with approximately, 1000 residents. The Nation is a signatory to Treaty 6, a historic treaty adopted in 1876 between the Canadian Crown and many First Nations in what is now central Alberta and Saskatchewan. Although disagreements and unmet promises have frequently characterized its execution, it recognized, among others, the right to Self-Determination and the Right to hunt, fish, trap and gather to Indigenous peoples.
While Glabus did not grow up with a direct connection to his community and was not exposed to his mother’s language, his grandmother provided him with aboriginal food to ensure he stayed in touch with his roots. Other than his ancestors, he taught himself on Indigenous foodways and history, making sure he preserved the traditions of his community.
This foundation and background shaped his philosophy of honoring the past through food. His dedication to traditional cuisine comes from the desire and will to rediscover what was forgotten through colonization. To celebrate the tenacity of Indigenous food systems, Glabus creates recipes with pre-colonial ingredients, avoiding dairy, artificial sweeteners, and European mainstays like chicken and pork. His inventions, such as duck eggs and nut milk-based wild-rice ice cream, highlight the creativity behind Indigenous cuisine. This act of culinary reclamation serves as both a personal and political statement about resilience and sovereignty.
Culinary Journey: Food as a unifying force around the world
From the beginning of his career, Glabus had exceptional international roles, from Executive Chef at the Canadian Embassy of Beijing to the Canadian Olympic House. He was exposed to diverse culinary practices, deepening his appreciation for the universal language of food, and strengthening his aim in making Indigenous cuisine more popular.
These moments shaped his understanding of food as a unifying force, one that transcends boundaries and fosters cultural heritage. This precise idea determined Galbus’ mission: challenging stereotypes about Indigenous culture. In his view, food is a way to teach about history, and more uncomfortable topics, such as colonization or cultural appropriation, and at the same time unites communities.
Food Sovereignty: A political and cultural mission
Food sovereignty is “the right of peoples to healthy and culturally appropriate food produced through ecologically sound and sustainable methods and their right to define their food and agriculture systems”. For Indigenous communities, food sovereignty represents reconnection to land-based food and to their political systems. Consequently, for Glabus food and politics are deeply intertwined. Colonization introduced new practices and modes of production that disturbed Indigenous foodways. By forcing Indigenous peoples to live on reservations and limiting their access to food, colonizers aimed to undermine cultural independence and establish their supremacy.
“If you take away a food source, you get control of the people”
Today, these tensions still exist, as Indigenous communities deal with the effects of past displacement and the contemporary dependence on manufactured foods. To overcome them, reconnection with food and education on those topics become central. Navigating misconceptions and removing structural obstacles are necessary when educating audiences from all around the world about Indigenous culinary practices. To share his knowledge, Glabus is a member of the Indigenous Advisory Committee at NAIT, working to integrate Indigenous food practices into culinary education.
I-Collective: A platform for culinary advocacy
A pivotal moment in Glabus’ career was joining I-Collective, an international group of autonomous Indigenous chefs, activists, herbalists, seed and knowledge keepers. The group embodies four principles: Indigenous, inspired, innovative, and independent; combining a passion for Indigenous cuisine with a desire for cultural ties. Members are united by a shared vision, as they advocate for food sovereignty, promote resilience, and celebrate Indigenous ingredients.
The collective offers more than recipes; it is a movement using technology, gastronomy, and agriculture to reclaim Indigenous foodways. Through highlighting culinary creativity and cultural resilience, the I-Collective is building a new narrative that respects the past, while also constructing a sustainable future.
One of the group’s main projects is A Gathering Basket, a multimedia publication blending recipes, essays, poetry, and educational content.
In addition to preserving culinary customs, it also encourages discussion of topics, like resource exploitation and colonization.
Another example of I-Collective’s advocacy is their seasonal meal series, where several Indigenous chefs, activists, and herbalists collaborate to highlight the role of Indigenous food and food sovereignty.
These events highlight the deep connection between gastronomy and storytelling, as every meal narrates the journey of its ingredients, from the land to the table.
In these spaces, food is more than sustenance; it transforms into a ceremony linking ancestors with future generations. The group does not simply revive Indigenous foodways, but it also addresses health disparities, reclaims landscapes, and provides monetary support to Indigenous communities telling their stories.
A vision for the future
It was always important for Glabus to find a community and purpose, above his career. Despite obstacles, Glabus has become a global spokesperson for Indigenous food and cuisine. However, his dreams go beyond his current successes. He hopes to build his own restaurant one day, whether it is fine dining or bed and breakfast, as long as it serves as a gastronomic and cultural haven.
By dedicating himself to honoring traditions, teaching others, and reclaiming Indigenous foodways, Glabus ensures that the stories embedded in every recipe will continue to be shared, savored, and celebrated.
Conclusion: The power of culinary storytelling
Food has the unique ability to build bridges between generations and forge connections across cultures and times. It is a powerful tool that embodies teachings about caring, identity, and resilience for Indigenous communities. Chefs like Quentin Glabus, and organizations like the I-Collective are essential to preserve and revive these stories.
Through their work, they challenge stereotypes, promote food sovereignty, and encourage discussions about the long-lasting effects of colonization. By celebrating Indigenous cuisine, they nourish the spirit and the body at the same time, serving as a reminder that each meal carries its own story of struggle, survival, and strength. As Glabus himself reflects:
“The best way to learn about my cultural background was through food.”
In this act, he and all the other like-minded chefs are making sure that these stories are recounted, savored, and celebrated.
